Sepals to Salvation: Springtime in Baku

Yesterday i had to pass by Government House, one of Baku's more imposing yet impressive public structures, and couldn't avoid noticing that preparations are underway for a major public event. Trivia alert: 'Designed by architects L. Rudnev and V. Munz, it was completed in 1952. Like many other post-war buildings in Baku, German prisoners took part in its construction.' The crenelated towers are so very archeo-Azeri, but my favorite features of this building are its Soviet era insignias. You can't tell me this isn't historically rich, almost reverential, in its design and probably encapsulates the core nature of the relationship between Kremlin and this combustible fuels Wunderland.

Back to what were either viewing stands or a stage being assembled, i remembered that there's a public holiday 15 June (nationalist section of my brain always slow on the uptake), obviously one in which high-ranking officials will take part. Proceeded to ask students in my afternoon classes what National Salvation Day (once we remember, we really remember) commemorates, but not one could tell me (impromptu homework assignment!) and thus, off to Google i went.

On one of former President Heydar Aliyev's fansites - oddly authored by a Mexican, primary narrative entitled He Brought Salvation to His People - i see the date 15 June and immediately the pieces fall into place:

En mayo-junio del año 1993, cuando en relación a la agudización extrema del crisis de go­bier­no, en el país surgió un pe­lig­ro del comienzo de la guerra civil y la pérdida de la independencia, el pueblo azerbayáno se levantó y exi­gió de subir a Heydar Aliyev al poder. Los dirigentes de entonces se vieron obligados a invitar oficialmente a Heydar Aliyev a Bakú. El 15 de junio del año 1993 Heydar Aliyev fue elegido el presidente del Soviet Supremo de Azerbayán.

In a nutshell: Aliyev saved the country from potential civil war, reoccupation by Russia, loss of even more territory to Armenia, overall disintegration into ethnic and economic chaos. The BBC provides this timeline, starting with the Turkmanchay treaty of 1828 and continuing to Ilham Aliyev's (son of Heydar) New Azerbaijan Party's stunning electoral victory in 2010 (my tongue is stuck in my cheek but hopefully yours isn't). More detailed background on post-Soviet history is available here. Heydar had run the Autonomous Soviet Republic of Azerbaijan in the final years of the CCCP and headed its security forces following independence. He was a stalwart KGB figure and i've yet to meet an Azeri who doesn't credit him with keeping the country together and setting it on 'the right road for improvement in national character', to quote one of my students. As a major player in the world's oil and gas industry, it would probably be hypocritical for anyone who's not off the grid, totally car free, etc. to criticize him for using whatever tactics were employed to create stability. Let's just leave it that for now.

The flat granite surfaces of Baku's public works are everywhere inscribed with Heydar Aliyev's 'wise admonitions', more or less what one would expect from any political leader of significant - nearly mythic - stature. As a foreigner, they offer great speculative insight into the country's ideals and self-image, its values and veneer: what could be, compared to what's been. Here's a small, provocative selection; readers of this blog are free to draw your own conclusions.

Patriotism is an inner feeling of the person. If he is missing that, he is immoral.

To make a hero of the thief and bribe taker is to betray the country.

Great intellect is not common. A scientist, a poet, a composer, an artist, a writer, an actor - all these are rare, gifted people.

One cannot relate great policy to tiny senses and little profits.

To conduct peace negotiations from a firm base one must possess a strong army.

It is necessary that the history should be accepted as it is in reality, realized and valued.

If leaders oppress a people with a great national spirit, this is the greatest tragedy for a nation.

Last month, the country combined celebration of its Flower Holiday with that of the Aliyev's birthday on 10 May (he died in 2003). The week of creative floral works was kicked off by the national oil company, SOCAR, providing a day of cultural activities and performances in one park (caught off guard, i had to resort to poor resolution phone camera), while major floral art was being prepared over the course of the week in another (Heydar Aliyev Park, naturally) for the big presidential commemoration on May 10. Here are a few photos. The flower sculptures are really lovely - so lovely, in fact, that they were protected by a small army of police and the line to gain entry into the park was longer than i was ever able to stand in it. Still, scouting round the periphery fencing was worth it. i'm told that on 15 June there will be a grand military parade, so i'll try to do better next week, though rifles and RPGs are not nearly as attractive as butterflies and fairytale characters.

Here's the main stage, with Heydar Aliyev presented in grande floral design. The portrait isn't blurry; what your seeing is the overlapping sepal effect typical of flower art on this scale (do i sound like an expert floral critic? Ha!!). Baku is full of billboards sporting Aliyev's photo, and i must say i like what i saw here better. People told me this whole spectacle - flowers, evening concert, requisite security details - cost the government upwards of 60 million manats, which is no small sum. Already too warm for icing to hold its shape, why not let them eat flowers?!